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Bamboo Trains, Fried Tarantulas, And a Cambodian Circus – Cambodia Part 3

by Matt 2 Comments

As mentioned in the last post, we decided to find a new hostel for our last 2 nights in Siem Reap. Mostly just for a change of scenery, to satisfy some curiosity, and to be closer to town. I found a great little place called Angkor Wonder, located right next to downtown Siem Reap, and just $8 per night. When we arrived though, the owner told us he had no rooms left even though we had already booked online and paid a deposit. To our luck though, the owner put us up across the street at a 3-star hotel for the same price! It was a “friend’s” hotel, and now we had a fancy room, an elevator, and a complete shower for just $8! Awesome way to spend the last 2 nights in the temple capital.

cambodia room
Our new room!

After a short day visiting smaller temples, a relaxing massage by blind people, and an awesome dance performance at Temple Bar and Restaurant, we booked our bus tickets for Battambang. We had spent 8 night in Siem Reap, and while it was fun, we  needed to check another city out. Battambang was about a 4-hour drive away and although the boat trip is popular, we eventually decided the longer 8-hour more expensive journey wasn’t worth it.

The bus ended up being on time which is amazing for Cambodia. We even met a couple of swedes on board who were the only non-Cambodians on the bus. We became friends after sharing fried grasshoppers at one of the stops and made way to the same hotel in Battambang. On arrival, our Toronto Maple Leaf Jersey-wearing tuk-tuk driver was there to pick us up.

Baby crocodile
Baby crocs

He cheerfully brought us to our hotel which was the cheapest in the city. At just $5 per night, you can’t complain about a line of ants marching up and down the wall. After sadly performing mass genocide on the marching ants, we heard about a local circus that is actually supposed to be pretty amazing. So good in fact, that 2 of the kid performers (most are about 12-16 years old) were given scholarships to study with Cirque Du Soleil in Montreal, Canada.

The Swedes tagged along and to our surprise, it actually was very good. These young kids showed great strength, balance, and other tricks I certainly am not able to do. For $8, it was a solid deal and is the TOP thing I recommend if you make it to Battambang. It’s the last place I expected a quality circus but that’s what makes it extra special.

The next day was also pretty cool. We grabbed the Swedes again and did a day-long tour of a crocodile farm, a small winery, a bamboo train, and the killing caves and bat show. Our first stop was the crocodile farm and besides the chance to hold a baby croc, the place was kind of sad. It was pretty much 600-1800 crocodiles in a little green crap-infested pool piled on top of each other without anywhere to really walk or swim. Some were newly born while others were going on 70 years old. Not a great life, that’s for sure.

Bamboo Train
Cambodian Bamboo Train

The winery was pretty much nothing so I’ll skip ahead to the bamboo train. This popular attraction is pretty much the most famous thing in Battambang which is pretty sad considering the circus is much better. For $5, I suppose it’s hard to complain about the bamboo train even though this is crazy expensive by Cambodian standards. The ride pretty much consists of sitting down on a flat piece of bamboo which guns down an abandoned train track by way of a old “Scooter” engine.  The history of the train is amazing since Cambodians came up with the idea in order to transport livestock and other things quicker and more efficiently. The trains no longer use the track because it’s in such bad shape but these local people put it to great use. As a ride, it’s nothing to special. You simply speed down the track at maybe 20 mph drifting past bushes, farmland, and more bush. After 20 minute or so, you stop at a little “store” in the middle of nowhere where you can buy soda, or small meals. We chatted with the shopkeeper for another 20 minutes or so before heading back down the track.

Battambang Killing Caves
Budda would be proud

The funny part is that the tracks are only one-way. This means that when you confront another bamboo train headed your way, both of you must stop. Then, the bigger one (who carries more people) gets the right-of-way and the smaller train has to disassemble and let the bigger one go by. They then reassemble back on the track and carry on. This takes about 2 minutes as there isn’t much to the train. All in all, it was a cool experience to do if your in Battambang but definitely not worth the trip alone.

Once we left the bamboo train, we made way for the killing fields, another  area where innocent people were slayed. The cave is on a mountain with amazing views of the land beneath it. The best part of the trip though happens at the bottom of the mountain around 6:15pm when millions of bats fly out in formation to look for food. This is amazing to watch as millions of bats form a black ribbon across the sky lasting roughly 45 minutes. You can then drive a little bit south and see them dancing through the sky. This is another must-see when in Battambang or anywhere else in the world where this happens.

Battambang bats
Black Ribbons of Bats

The next night was our last in Cambodia so we took a bus to Phnom Penh. This bus, although just 5-hours, was incredibly annoying. It had a ear-piercing horn that seemed to go off about every 5 minutes when the bus would pass motorcycles or other things on the road. We did arrive though, and funny enough, ran into the Swedes who had also left to Phnom Penh that day. We seemed to run into them at the perfect time to0, since I had just noticed a lady selling all kinds of fried insects on the side of the main road.

I quickly grabbed them and since we met over fried grasshoppers, we had to say bye to each other by sharing in the delight of fried tarantula. I had wanted to do this while in Cambodia, and although I hesitated once holding the furry black creature in my hand, I knew I had to do it. The 4 of us munched down, catching spider legs as they fell off the crisp body. It actually wasn’t as bad as it looked. The body pretty much tasted like a fried chicken wing while the bum was a little odd. Maybe the venom gave it an off taste or maybe it was all in my imagination.

Fried Tarantula
Yummy Spider

So with fried tarantula in belly, I knew I had completed my trip to Cambodia. I’m real happy I found the insect food stall, as well as our new Swedish friends, our British pal from Siem Reap, our incredible trip to all the temples, and our wonderful time around Battambang and Phnom Penh.

I truly recommend a trip to Cambodia, and if you have time for more than just temples, I’m sure a visit to any other city will be great. The people are friendly, the food is pretty good, and the Asian hospitality is splendid.

 

Cambodian Military, Monkeys, and Floating Villages – Cambodia Part 2

by Matt 3 Comments

As mentioned in the previous post, the temples around Angkor Wat are beautiful. I had no idea how many temples there were around the Angkor area and how impressive each of them are. After having some fun with little monkeys, and taking pictures of many others, we took a ride around Bayon, marveling the magnificent faces that stare at you throughout the visit. Bayon was probably my favorite temple although Bapuon (another favorite) has a very beautiful walkway along with a pyramid like structure that offered grand vistas of it’s surroundings.

Bayon

All the temples as you can imagine, have many people trying to sell you things which can get on a persons nerves after awhile. However, sometimes I find it quite sad and wish I could buy from everyone. One lady determined to get me to visit “her” little restaurant ran along-side my bike as I repeatedly told her I already had a restaurant I was going to. I felt bad that she worked that hard to earn a sale but I already had a “familiar” spot I wanted to return to.

After a great meal at Angkor Thom stall #30, we took our rented peddle bikes and tried watching another sunset take place but once we realized the clouds weren’t willing to budge, we made the 1-hour trek back to our guesthouse.

Once back at the guest house, I knew I needed to figure out a way to get to Prasat Preah Vihear, another UNESCO site located far north on the border of Thailand and almost the border of Laos. I found out that a car and driver would cost me $120 USD which I didn’t want to take on myself. Determined to make this work, I found another guest nearby and told him about the temple that awaited us. The British guy was in and became a friend for the remainder of our trip to Cambodia. We agreed to take one day off and then take the car 4-hours north the day after.

Cambodia floating villageBut of course, a day off is rare for me so instead, my fiancee and I went along with a guest house worker to a nearby fishing village on the Tonle Sap. His name was Visnay and was the only reason we decided to make this trek. I had heard many bad things about this “tourist trap” but considering our guide was from there and who’s family still lived there, we had to do it.

A short tuk-tuk ride later (actually not that short because it broke down and we had to wait for another), we arrived at the river passage that leads to the Tonle Sap fishing village. We jumped in our boat which is kind of ridiculous considering it could hold about 15-20 people and headed out into the village. The fishing village looks pretty awesome and I can imagine how cool it must look when the water levels are high. We saw many houses on stilts, people getting around with little wooden boats, and pig pens floating around in the water. I snapped some great photos and then stopped to visit Visnay’s parents as well as a short stop at a local school.

tonle sap school fishing villageThe school was full of adorable children all eager to learn new things. They stopped to greet us and one of the teachers had us tell the class about ourselves. We then asked the kids to ask us questions, but since we could tell they were shy, we bribed them with “Canadian” pencils we had bought in Vancouver. Now we could tell they really wanted to ask questions and some did. It was cute to see how much they struggled to think of something to ask. We answered some easy questions, gave out some pencils, and said our goodbyes. We then went back to the boat and headed into the Tonle Sap, a big filthy lake where most of the fish and shrimp come from in Cambodia. After another quick pass by the floating forest, we went back to the river, got back in the tuk-tuk, and headed home.

The next day, we departed at 4:30am to make way to Prasat Preah Vihear, a UNESCO World Heritage Site 4-hours north of Siem Reap. The ride was dark and uneventful but after 4 boring hours, we arrived near our site. We then paid $20 USD to take a short ride in a 4×4 up the mountain to see the temple. This was a steap climb and a steap fee as well but since most of it goes to the poorly paid army, I figured it was okay.

prasat preah vihearAbout 20 minutes later, we arrived to the top, pleasantly greeted by much of the army who are present there to protect the site from Thailand. In fact, it was just 1 year before we arrived that Thailand shot missiles, blowing up the temple in some parts and killing many people. The army has lived at this temple for many years and it was now closed to anyone wanting to visit from Thailand. It’s a shame that anyone would cause mass destruction to a temple so important and so beautiful.

The most special thing about the temple to the naked eye is that fact that it sits high on a mountain overlooking Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. The view is breathtaking as is the view we took in the military binoculars as we watched the Thailand side for any mishaps. The military were surprisingly friendly, often asking us questions and telling us much about there home in the temple.

prasat preah vihearIt wasn’t just military either. It was also their families. We had 4 cute kids that kept following us around saying “hello” over and over again. When we stopped for a quick bite to eat, we shared with them our bread and jam, and also gave them some pencils. They graciously said thank you and ran off laughing.

Not many people come this far to see one temple that is guarded by the military but I’m really happy we did. The temple is great, massive, and has a very impressive view from the top. The fact that the military lives there makes it extra interesting and if you have a chance to go see, please do.

It was a long day and it was great to finally hit the bed. The next day however, just for curiosity, we decided to switch hostels and create some new adventures.

To be continued in Part 3.

Why not read part 1?

 

 

Ancient Temples, Killing Fields, and Crazy Drivers – Cambodia Part 1

by Matt Leave a Comment

Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat

Friendly people, tuk-tuks, floating villages, ancient temples, military, and fried tarantulas are all wonderful images that come to mind when I think back to our two weeks in Cambodia.

We arrived late on January 21st after roughly 17 hours of flying from Canada to China, and finally our destination. It was dark and humid, but luckily we had already arranged a taxi through our guesthouse to pick us up at the airport. The plan was to relax for a day before planning the next couple of weeks.

After waking up, we decided on spending only one more night in Phnom Penh before heading out to Siem Reap. With a full day ahead of us, we grabbed a tuk-tuk and made way to the S-21 Genocide Museum and the gruesome Khem Rouge killing fields.

As great as it was to learn about these tragedies, it’s also painful to imagine the torture three million Cambodians went through just 30+ years ago. In Hitler-esque style, Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge gang ruthlessly murdered millions of helpless men, women, children, and even babies in just 3 short but long years. When one person was ordered to be killed, he would have the entire family murdered right down to the dog.

It’s truly insane that people like this exist today and although horrible, it’s great that places like the killing fields and the genocide museum exist to remind us of such hatred and cruelty. After walking through the killing fields complete with an audio guide (which is highly recommended), looking at the temples of real human skulls, and seeing bones that have been surfacing due to rainfall, we decided it was time to move on.

Cambodia tuk-tuk
Our fearless tuk-tuk driver

After another stop at the national museum, we booked our bus ticket to Siem Reap. Instead of booking the $7 big bus for the 6-hour journey, we got sold on the “VIP” mini-bus which gets you there in 5 hours for $11. Well, let me be the one to tell you that the mini-bus is a bad idea. First off, there is nothing VIP about it. You get a little 25 cent bottle of water and since it’s a min-van, it feels more cramped than a bus. There is also no bathroom, although this is common on many buses here. The worst part is watching the road every minute unsure of when you’re going to get in a head-on collision. People in Cambodia tend to drive a little crazy, swerving in and out of lanes into oncoming traffic and dodging motorbikes by just Cm’s. With a bus, your more of a “king” on the road with more padding and metal to aid in a collision but in a min-van, it’s going to get messy.

Anyways, our 5-hour journey turned into 11 hours because of a religious festival occurring just after Phnom Phen on the way to Siem Reap. Pilgrims, truck-loads of monks, and even elephants were walking towards one of the temples blocking the highway for everyone else. After roughly 5 hours at crawling speed, we finally hit the open now-dark highway and made way for Siem Reap.

After 5 hours of feeling my eyes glued to the windshield as I desperately prayed for not hitting oncoming traffic, we finally arrived in Siem Reap at about midnight. We had arranged for a tuk-tuk to meet us and we were at our new guesthouse within about 15 minutes.

The Bun Kao Guesthouse was welcoming and spacious with a large foyer and very friendly staff. We had booked a double room with an en-suite bathroom for 2 nights but ended up staying for 6. At $14 per night, it wasn’t cheap by Siem Reap standards, but with free breakfast and some good people, we stayed put.

Siem Reap is a touristy town with a nice riverside (except for the brown water), some great restaurants, and really good fish massage parlours. $1 for a beer and 15-minutes of fish nibbling away at your dead skin is a solid deal. After a day of looking around town, we bought a 3-day Angkor pass and started our first temple day off with sunrise at Angkor Wat. The sunrise wasn’t too grand considering the chaos of hundreds of people sitting around the moat with so many camera flashes going off, you’d think you were in a club dancing to a strobe light.

However, the real benefit to sunrise at Angkor Wat is when it is over and everyone goes back into town to eat breakfast. This is the only time of day to see Angkor Wat with barely a soul in sight and we took full advantage of it. Angkor Wat is of course, remarkable. Were not big into little details and deep history but the building is stunning and it’s a fun atmosphere to imagine what life must have been like thousands of years ago. We walk around taking pictures and even snap one of a monk before heading out to see other temples in the area.

On our way out of Angkor Wat, we noticed some monkeys playing in trees and went closer to get a look. Little ones scurried around us chasing after each other and playing games. It was all fun and games until a bigger one approached Karla and grabbed a hold of her pink shiny water bottle. As she opened her mouth revealing her fangs, we weren’t too sure if she was wanting to play or kill us, so we just walked away.

Ta Prohm
Enchanting Ta Prohm

Next, we hit the roads and went to see Ta Phrom, the amazing temple that was made famous by Tomb Raider. Ta Prohm had a very magical feel to it. We walked around the outside of the temples first, taking pictures of the ancient structure while beautiful yellow leaves fell from the trees. The backdrop of the misty bird-singing jungle and the scorpion sitting on the rocks enhanced the feel of a once-remote jungle paradise. Huge trees sprung their roots throughout the temple causing massive damage to the stone walls. They grew inside, outside, and even on top of the magical structure. This really gave it that Indiana Jones “ruins” type of look.

Ta Prohm is also a photographer’s dream. We snapped many incredible photos inside the temple and even ran into a Mexican television actor while trying to take the picture that National Geographic had made famous in many magazines. Afterwards, we headed back to our trusty tuk-tuk and headed to other beautiful temples in the Angkor Park area. If you ever embark on an adventure to southeast Asia, you’ll find many incredibly ancient and beautiful temples.

Read More: Cambodian Military, Monkeys, and Floating Villages.

 

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